| Welcome to our Blog on Italy |
| Walk in the Path of the Gladiators |
September, 2010
Imagine a scene from The Gladiator - Maximus, (aka Russel Crowe) quietly waiting in the bowels of the Colosseum for his chance to prove himself, and hopefully see another day.
Historically, Maximus didn’t exist but there certainly were others who waited nervously for their fate to be decided in the underground rooms and corridors that are now open to the public in Rome’s Colosseum. The 80,000 capacity stadium where the residents of Rome would have come for a day of entertainment, just like a football match at the MCG, was originally a much grander building than it is today, and as with all monuments has been ransacked by Emperors and Popes to use the valuable materials in other new projects.
Along with gladiators there were also exotic animals, criminals and slaves who spent their last days in these confined spaces underground. The lions, tigers, bulls and gazelles would have been brought to the surface, just as in the movie, by means of pulleys and weights making a spectacular and surprising entrance as if out of nowhere. Scenery was also hoisted up this way to re-enact great battles - even naval battles as the amphitheatre was able to be flooded.
Spectators sat in relative comfort even being shielded from the sun with huge awnings over the stadium munching on snacks from vendors selling the Roman version of fast food, unaware of the drama being played out underground.
This new underground section is sure to be fascinating and chilling.
Tags: What’s new with the Colosseum, underground rooms in the Colosseum,
| Eat Fish (&) Play - or How to find a great restaurant in Positano - Da Adolfo |
September, 2010
If you haven’t yet picked up the book ’My Amalfi Coast’ by Amanda Tabberer (the daughter of a well know Australian television personality Maggie Tabberer) and you are toying with the idea of visiting the Amalfi coast - a word of advice - go straight to the bookshop to buy it, or at least have a good flick through. This colourful coffee table book is a treasure trove of information on the Amalfi coast with the most brilliant photographs which showcase the attraction of this stunning area. The book really should be a bible for anyone wanting to visit and will encourage visitors to step out to the other lesser known villages along the coast instead of sticking to the better known towns, and tourist haunts, such as Amalfi, Sorrento and Positano.
Always on the look out for some new eating experiences, I browsed through the book and found Da Adolfo, and of course I also listened to .jpg) recommendations from others who had stayed in Positano and visited Da Adolfo more than once (what a great recommendation!). It seems that Amanda had a bit of a vested interest in recommending this Positano institution - she was married to Sergio, the son of the original owner, and lived in Positano for 18 years, which explains her intense knowledge of the area - but I am happy to say her recommendation was spot on!
Da Adolfo is in a small cove next to the main beach in Positano. You are met on the Positano wharf by Da Adolfo’s boat, which runs every half hour at lunch time - what a fantastic way to be ferried to lunch - this really gets you in the mood for what’s in store. This restaurant is quite different in that it is an authentic beach restaurant, definitely wouldn’t win any design awards, you sit at the table with sand in your toes eating the freshest catch of the day just off the boat - delicious. I love the idea that all of the day’s menu is on a blackboard - sometimes with lines crossing off the fish as they were devoured by the hungry mob.
 The very friendly waiters translated the catch and explained how it would be cooked - with most simply grilled. We decided to start with the aromatic version of buffalo mozzarella grilled on lemon leaves - the smell was sensational, and the taste, just perfect. Most of us chose seafood for our main but the restaurant also caters for others who don’t eat fish, and the couple in our party who chose other items on the menu were equally as happy with their choices.
After drinking the very quaffable table wine, (house or table wine in Italy is far superior than what is served up Australia) we decided to indulge in a variety of dolce, thinking that a fish restaurant probably wouldn’t do such a great job - we were very pleasantly surprised. I had to be held back from ordering seconds.
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We had totally indulged; it was warm, the sun was shining, the company was entertaining and life was good. What to do next? Well, the other great drawcard of this restaurant is that you can take up one of the lounge chairs in the front of the restaurant and either sleep off lunch, or go for a swim - I was in heaven!
Da Adolfo on Laurito Beach - we will always return to Da Adolfo when back in Positano
Look for the boat with the red fish on the wharf at Positano (see picture above)
Our Ciao Bella Tour visits Positano...click here...
Tags: restaurants in Positano, Da Adolfo in Positano, beach restaurant in Amalfi, good restaurant in Amalfi
| How to tour Sardinia (and find the best places to sleep) |
5th August, 2010 by Italian Indulgence
If you have travelled around the mainland of Italy but want to experience something a little different, then you might want to consider a side trip to Sardinia, or Sardegna, the correct Italian name. Ryanair, one of Europe’s budget airlines, flies from Rome Ciampino to Cagliari which is the south of the island and although there are many different ways to discover the island - this is the route we decided to take.
Cagliari is the capital of Sardinia and has a delightful old town around an old port area. The main attraction of the area is the Castello (castle) neighbourhood which is still partially enclosed by the walls. The place to be seen is the main piazza where the locals gather at night to eat on the street, weather permitting, and catch up on the daily news. There are some wonderful inexpensive restaurants in this area so definitely worth visiting. We did notice on nearly every menu that ’cavallo’ or horse was on offer - so be careful when ordering and take a good phrase book if this is not what you would like to try.
Our base: Sa Domu Cheta - a great small hotel, more of a bed and breakfast really, it consists of two buildings next to each other. Walking distance to the main piazza, comfortable beds, newly renovated, delicious and healthy breakfast, and free internet.
www.sadomucheta.it
Oristano is placed in the centre of Sardinia and besides having a historical town full of interesting architecture and quaint shops, it is very near the area of San Salvatore which was well used in the 60s as the backdrop for many of the spaghetti westerns. In fact, when you visit the small town, with the incredible house facades, it feels as though Clint Eastwood will appear toting his 6 guns at any moment.
The town is fascinating as it is deserted for most of the year but on the first weekend in September it is host to one of the oldest festivals in Sardina. Many families maintain the small houses there so that they have accommodation just for this weekend. The festival involves around a thousand runners, all barefoot young men in whites robes carrying the simulacrum of San Salvatore. Even though the festival only takes place on one weekend a year, and the rest of the time the town is deserted, there is a western bar, of course, which is open most weekends in the summer and a great place for a drink after exploring this fascinating town.
Our base: Eleonora B & B this bed and breakfast is run by a young couple and they are really doing things well. The building is in a quiet piazza, close to the action, the rooms are huge and the beds are very comfy. Breakfast delicious.
www.eleonora-bed-and-breakfast.com
Alghero - was built around a fortified port and has a delightful old town, you will want to stay quite close to the town as there are great restaurants and bars in this area. We visited the daily market for picnic supplies and this was great fun. One activity you shouldn’t miss when in Alghero is the Grotta di Nettuno (Neptune’s Grotto). These marine caves are truly fascinating and are located to the west of the town. If you have a car it is a short drive but then you must trek down around 700 steps! The entrance is around 10 euros but this includes a guided tour. When you finish the tour then you need to trek the 700 steps UP!! Another way to visit the caves is to take a tour from the town, not too expensive, around 30 euro and the boat takes you right to the mouth of the cave.
Another great activity while near Alghero is the Giara de Gesturi (see below)
Our base: Hotel San Francesco Set right in the middle of the old town, the location is perfect - but... this hotel is rated as a 3 star (and charges accordingly) which it definitely is not. This is a monastery stay, the church is right next door. The hotel rooms face a cloister and the monks still use the same building. The rooms are very small, the beds extremely uncomfortable and it has a feel of a monastery - and that is fine if it is what you were expecting. I was expecting a 3 star hotel.
www.sanfrancescohotel.com
Tags: travelling to Sardinia, what to see in Sardinia, tours to Sardinia
| How to Find the Best Gelato in Rome |
19th July, 2010 by Italian Indulgence
Growing up in Australia, and with so many Italian migrants living in my area, gelato is something I am familiar with, and love. Every time I travel to Italy, I am always on the lookout for the best example of this wonderful food. My Italian uncle made fresh gelato for his restaurant so I saw first hand the deliciously fresh ingredients that are combined to make the icy delight. Any good gelateria in Italy should produce its own versions but unfortunately nowdays it is all too easy for some to order in from an outside source. Don’t waste valuable calories on less than perfect gelato!
Gelato is an inexpensive tradition in italy and most Italians eat lots, that is why the gelateria is in nearly every second street. Italians love to combine their ’passegiata’, daily evening stroll, with a gelato in one hand - how civilised! It is made with milk, not cream as with ice-cream and if made correctly is smooth, creamy and full of flavour. The varieties of flavours are made from; fruit (which should taste exactly like the fruit - just cold), cioccolato (which is basic chocolate but can then have other more delicious combined flavours such as baci or ’cioccolato fondente’ (dark chocolate flavour) and nuts which can be pistacchio, mandorla (almond) nocciola (hazlenut). The last delicious flavours are the ’creams’ which can be caffe, zabaione etc - yum! So after exhaustive research, and a few extra kilos, my vote for the best gelato in Rome is......
San Crispino
This place is a little different. Firstly, you won’t find a cone anywhere as they believe the cone takes away from the gelato experience - that suits me fine as I prefer mine in a cup anyway. The two shops I have visited are in great locations just around the corner from the Pantheon and then close to the Trevi Fountain, although I would have walked miles (see addresses below). My favourite flavour?? Meringa al caramello - this has delicious pieces of meringue in a beautiful creamy caramel gelato - fantastic! They can be a little brusque - well you are after all a tourist in Italy - so get on the end of the line but not before working out exactly which indulgence you will try. And if you can’t master the Italian words, pointing is fine. Enjoy!
San Crispino
Via della Panetteria 42
Fontana di Trevi (near the Trevi Fountain)
Pizazza della Maddalena, 3
Pantheon
Website:
http://www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it
Google Map:
TAGS: how to find the best gelato in Rome, food in Italy, gelato in Italy, gelato in Rome, Roman gelato, the best gelato, travel to Italy, enjoying food in Italy.
| Sardinia and a Magic Forest |
July, 2010 by Italian Indulgence’s travelling companion
Our recent trip to Sardinia scouting new locations for our trips lead us to central Sardinia and a wonderful national park - Giara de Gesturi. This is a walking park as no cars are allowed, we didn’t know what to expect but this was a marvelous revelation. The government is going to great lengths to conserve this very special area.
  
On the way to visit Nuraghe Su Nuraxi (see below for description) near Barumini in central Sardinia, Italy, the island’s only UNESCO listed Neolithic site, we took a wrong turn and ended up in an enchanted forest that could well be the setting for the next Harry Potter movie.
Giara de Gesturi is a basalt capped plateau that rises 500m above sea level and lies directly to the west of Gesturi. It is distinguished from many other plateaux in central Sardinia by a magnificent cork tree forest that covers an undulating terrain of volcanic boulders and shallow depressions that form winter lakes. Even in Neolithic times this location was considered sacred with a high concentration of Nuraghe (neolithic villages) located around the flanks and rim of the plateau.
The gnarled trunks and lush canopy of olive green leaves provide a low-rise Potteresque forest that shelters a micro environment that is truly amazing. Groups of wiry wild ponies genetically sculptured to blend into the forest setting can be seen grazing in small groups on an exotic array of heather. Their nonchalant reaction to my intrusion suggests a familiarity with humans forged over centuries without the need to surrender their independence. In addition to the ponies, the macro-fauna we are told but did not witness in its entirety also includes wild boar, foxes and goats.
While walking on well-beaten tracks that wander through the landscape with no clear purpose in mind we always had the sense that we were being watched. It wasn’t until our approach became unsettling that the voyeurs revealed themselves to be bright eyed owls and back and grey coloured ravens – again straight out of Harry Potter.
Even the insects appear to be a magical collection of the familiar that are yet somehow unique to Giara de Gesturi. Swollen bumble bees in yellow and black striped jackets constantly buzzing in and out of daisy bushes; an iridescent blue dragon fly that appeared to be in love with the camera lens and a dung beetle that wheeled a ball of horse manure across our path that was the size of a three storey building relative to its black armoured frame represent a few of the characters that I met along the way.
Giara de Gesturi was a wonderful revelation.
Peter
 What is a Nuraghe? The word Nuraghe (pronounced Nur-ah-gay) means ancient megalithic tower, a building made of large and roughly worked stone - they were probably used as a refuge against invaders in times of trouble. In Sardinia (Sardegna) they have been dated to around 3,000 BC and there seem to be in excess of 6,000 scattered around the countryside.
View Larger Map
Tags: Sardinia, travelling to Sardinia, Nuraghe of Sardinia, Giara de Gesturi, group tours to Italy, women’s tours to Italy
Iphones and Holidays can be a nightmare - iphones+Holidays=Holiday nightmare
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April, 21 by Italian Indulgence
Even my friends will agree, as I tell them often enough, that I love my iphone. But what I definitely don’t love is the shock of opening the bill when arriving home from Italy. I should know better – as I am aware that roaming charges are outrageous at around $7.00 a minute – and that is even if someone is calling you! But…there are always times when I have forgotten to turn my phone off and receive a call in the middle of the night, you know those calls…the local charity wanting to sell more raffle tickets. Even when I try to get them off the phone quickly, but politely, the call might have cost me $20 – ouch! In addition to this, the iphone (and others) has a ‘fetch data’ function, which is great at home as all of your emails etc., are ‘pushed’ to your phone enabling you to check your mail in the coffee shop. This function overseas is a recipe for disaster – data charges can be huge. Here are some great tips for avoiding a heart attack when opening your post holiday phone bill……
Do you really need to be available to all and sundry on holidays? If not, maybe you need an Italian sim card (or any other country’s card):
To use an Italian sim card:
- Make sure your phone is unblocked – before you leave for holidays ask your provider how this can be done, usually over the phone
- When in Italy buy a sim card at a phone dealer i.e., Wind, Tim – you will need your passport to verify your identity
- Insert your new sim card
- Text close friends and family, give them your new Italian number and let them know that they will be charged international rates if they call
- You’re set.
If you need to be available on your own number, and want to keep using your phone, but avoid nasty surprises when you arrive home:
- Turn off 3G – this function allows your phone to work much faster allowing more data to download
- Turn off ‘Data Roaming’ – this will stop email etc., being sent to your phone (you can always check this at the hotel or an internet cafe)
- Use text to communicate with family and friends, this is much cheaper but still around $1.00 a text
- Use the hotel’s computer if you need to surf the web
- Of course, if you are in a wifi zone you will still be able to connect with the internet.
The way to turn off ‘Data Roaming” and ’3G’:
- click ‘settings’
- click ‘general’
- click ‘network’
- click ‘Enable 3G’ and ‘Data Roaming’ Put these in the Off position
- You’re set
Happy holidays!
TAGS: iphone and holidays, phones on holidays, how can I reduce my phone bill on holidays, iphone and overseas travel
| How to survive long haul flights |
April 14, 2010 by italian Indulgence
Australians know that if they want to travel to Europe, the first and last part of the trip can feel like slow and painful torture. With nearly 24 hours in a plane…it just might seem like the longest day of your life.
What can we do to make our journey just that little bit better?
Well, this is stating the obvious – travel first class, or even business! If this is just a dream (and let’s face it, the price could be 3 or 4 times more) you need to make yourself as comfortable as possible.
If you are a frequent flyer why not be a bit cheeky and on arrival at the airport, ask very sweetly and politely whether there might be any upgrades going? You never know what can happen in a big city… Make sure you are dressed as though you could afford this ticket, even if you can’t, as first impressions make a big difference. If this fails here some tips to help you survive your flight…
Here are my tried and true suggestions to make your trip a little more bearable, and some items you just don’t want to forget.
Try to break the trip with a stopover – planes can’t even travel for 24 hours without refueling. Depending on the airline, your stopover might be in Asia, or the middle east or…. A two day stopover would be a great idea as this gives you time to relax for the next leg. Ideally the next leg should be at night so that when you arrive after sleeping for 7 or even 8 hours, you are refreshed and ready to start your adventure.
Ok, a stopover is not possible, your boss won’t give you extra time off and you’re in a hurry to start that European vacation.
On board essentials:
Small clear toiletries bag with bottles no more than 100ml (yes, they are still being quite strict on this)
Ear Plugs (for when that guy in the next seat really is annoying, or snoring, or both!)
Eye shades (they never seem to have those lights low enough)
Inflatable neck pillow
Make-up remover, refresh spray and moisturiser (use frequently) (one shot sizes are now available from places such as www.ciaobellatravel.com.au)
Eye drops – stop that Bride of Dracula look on arrival in Rome – these should be used hourly, dehydration plays havoc with the eyes
Pressure socks – purchase these at pharmacies or even major supermarkets these days
A light pair of ballet slippers (jiffies to Australians) to slip over your socks – this stops those nasty surprises when using the bathroom at 3 in the morning and some sleepy guy has been in just before you (you know what I mean)
A seat on the aisle – I just hate the idea of having to walk over people if I need to get up and move around or go to the loo
Find the number of the relaxation channel
Take a light shawl, pashmina, in case it becomes cool
Good book
Ipod
Ok, some might not like this…but a sleeping tablet. There are even some herbal ones around that work a treat
Dehydration is your biggest enemy….
Drink lots of water – buy a large bottle after customs as they never seem to bring around those glasses quickly enough, especially in economy class
Try to limit alcohol – I know I should have said absolutely no alcohol, but I love a glass of wine with dinner
Walk and exercise..deep vein thrombosis can and does happen.
Don’t sit in the one spot for hours catching up on all of the movies you have missed for the past year -
walk around the cabin as often as possible or take note of the exercise recommendations on the channel selections.
When you arrive at your destination, try to hit the road running – drop off your luggage at the hotel, pick up a map and phrase book and start being a tourist. Whatever you do, don’t sit on your bed…not even for 5 minutes…this could be a tragedy. You will wake up at 2 in the morning with no possibility of getting back to sleep and absolutely no way to find a cup of tea!
Long haul flights are bad..very bad but these suggestions just might make it a little easier. And when you are out and about enjoying your cafe macchiato, and you happen to overhear some tourist tell of their nightmarish trip in the plane (all 11 hours of it) …sit them down and gently explain to them where Australia is in the world.
Buon Viaggio
TAGS: long haul flights, how to survive long haul flights, what do I need on a long haul flight, travelling to Italy, small trips to Italy, group tours to Italy
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